Kamikaze Korner
Playing big connectors: K-Q, Q-J, J-10

By Davin Anderson

Connectors are one of the most commonly played hands in Texas Hold’em, especially in limit Hold’em. By definition, they are any two cards that are in consecutive order. Big connectors are K-Q, Q-J, and J-10, medium connectors would be 10-9, 9-8, and 8-7, and small connectors include 6-5, 5-4, and 4-3. In this article I will be discussing the proper tactics of playing the big connectors in limit Hold’em.

The most obvious strength to these hands is the possibility to make several straights. Obviously, when they are suited these hands increase in strength because of the flush possibility, but don’t be fooled. The mathematical advantage is realistically so small (around five percent) that most professional players rarely consider suited hands to have a true long-term advantage. A-K and A-2 are not usually considered connectors because they make only one straight.

Big connectors are the best connectors to play because they almost always make nut straights, and will often make a pair that can win at showdown. If no one has raised from early position preflop, I will often make the first raise with these hands from middle to late position. If a loose player raises in front of me, I will sometimes try to isolate him preflop with a re-raise to three bets.

The most common mistake players make with these hands is calling three to four bets preflop with these hands, or limping in early position in wild or aggressive games. These hands play the best when you are in control of the betting and are in position against one or two opponents.

If I limp in with these hands and the pot is raised and re-raised I will often fold, especially when solid players are doing the re-raising. The most common and expensive situation can be flopping top pair or trips, then having to call down your opponent to the river with the second best kicker. Another very expensive situation is making two pair on a connected board in a big multi-way pot, because someone probably has a straight or a set.

Now let’s take a look at each of these hands. K-Q is a hand that I will usually play, and usually raise with. But K-Q has a big problem when it’s up against A-A, ­K-K­, Q-Q, A-K, and A-Q. If you find yourself up against one or more solid players and you flop top pair, be careful if they give you action.

The obvious flops that you will want with K-Q are ones that are king or queen high, straight flops (like A-J-10, or J-10-9), or trips. There are some good flops that many novices overlook such as 10-9-x, or J-9-x. If your opponent only has one pair, you have more outs (cards needed to win) than they think.

As long as your opponent doesn’t have a king or queen in their hand, you have 10 outs, compared to a flush draw (9 outs) or a straight draw (8 outs). These outs include any of three kings, any of three queens, and any of four straight cards. The hidden strength of this hand is the two over cards to potentially make top pair on one of the next two cards to win the pot.

With flops such as these, I will always bet if my opponent checks, raise if my opponent bets, and re-raise if my opponent raises or check raises me. If my opponent is a very loose calling station, I will often take a free card on the turn, and if he is a solid tight player, I will often bet again on the turn because of the added possibility of winning the pot by betting.

K-Q should be played aggressively both preflop and postflop, but if you flop top pair and someone plays back at you, be prepared to put on the breaks. In many situations there will be many more hands that beat you than you will beat.

Q-J is more often a trap hand in raised pots than anything else. Flopping top pair with this hand in a raised multi-way pot will not be a showdown winner (when unimproved to the river) enough times to play for a raise on a consistent basis. The only hand that you really want to make with this hand in a multi-way pot is a straight.

When I play this hand it’s usually from late position and I’m probably raising with it to attack the blinds, preventing them from getting a free flop, and taking the button to maintain position for postflop play. I will also play in a multi-way limped pot from the late position or from the blinds, but usually not for a raise.

If I happen to flop top pair, I will usually play cautiously, not wanting to play for more than one bet per round, and not to the river in multi-way pots with just one pair. If I’m heads-up with top pair, I will play aggressively on the flop so as not to give a free card to possible overcards, but will slow down on the turn and river if my opponent is a solid, tight player who will usually not give action with less than top pair.

J-10 is one of the most popular gambling type hands for many Hold’em players. Many a regular poker player has told me it’s their favorite hand (especially suited) to gamble with. That’s because J-10 makes the most straights, and more importantly the most nut straights. Many poker players also consider it to be just under the premium hands because it connects in some way on almost every flop that isn’t 6 high. Some even believe it’s the best starting hand for multi-way pots for all the above reasons. The true grinders of cash games know otherwise, because it’s still just jack high with little showdown value in the long run.

Just like Q-J, I rarely play this hand for more than one bet preflop and usually only in late position. If I do play this hand, I will usually be the first one in the pot and open for a raise. But, I will also play it for one bet in multi-way limped pots for the aforementioned reasons. I do not, however, look to play this hand heads up and out of position.

The long term profit for hands like J-10 and Q-J are in making two pair and straights in multi-way pots. So if you’re going to play these hands, look for the right situations to play them, and play them properly.